Shivam Hegadi
Hi there, my name is Shivam Hegadi. I love to tinker with electronics and design 3D models.
@shivamhegadi.bsky.social on Bluesky
The first layer of your 3D prints is like the foundation of a house. If the foundation isn’t stable, the structure above will suffer. In FDM (fused deposition modeling) prints, the plastic that is extruded must properly adhere to the printing surface and be evenly distributed. If the first layer fails, the rest of your print will likely experience poor quality.
A successful first layer ensures:
●Print Adhesion - Prevents the model from warping or lifting
●Structural Strength - A weak first layer can lead to layer shifting or poor bonding later on.
●Dimensional Accuracy - Sets the footprint for vertical accuracy.
Common First Layer Problems
Here are a few common issues that plague the first layer.
1. Poor Bed Adhesion
Symptoms:
●The filament will not stick to the print plate.
●Edges lift off the print plate (warping)
●The model detaches from the print plate mid-print.
2. Wrong Nozzle Height
Symptoms:
●Filament does not come out or is very thin (too close)
●Lines look thick or stringy (too far away)
3. Uneven extrusion
Symptoms:
●Overlapping lines
●Blobby/Rough texture
●Gaps between lines
4. Temperature Problems
Symptoms:
●Extruded Filament curls up or lifts
●The layer does not bond to the bed or other layers
Mastering the First Layer: Step-by-Step Guide
Here is how to achieve a perfect first layer, whether you are printing with PLA, PETG, or any other filament.
1. Level your bed (properly)
This is of utmost importance. Most beginners think that bed leveling is a one-time process, but it needs to be checked regularly. There are 2 types of bed leveling: Automatic Bed Leveling (most newer printers have this) and Manual Bed Leveling (older printers have this).
Automatic Bed Leveling Instructions
1. Open the printer menu and click on auto bed leveling. (wording may be different for printer brands)
2. Run the bed leveling routine regularly or when you notice a decrease in print quality.
Manual Bed Leveling Instructions
1. Home the printer
2. Move the nozzle to each corner of the print bed.
3. Place a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed.
4. Adjust the knobs until there is a slight resistance when moving the paper.
Tip: Repeat the process twice, adjusting a corner may affect others.
2. Set the Correct Z-Offset
The Z-Offset determines how close the nozzle will be to the print. Too high, and the filament won’t stick. Too low, and the nozzle will scrape or clog.
Here’s a quick way to dial in the Z-offset:
●Print a single-layer test pattern (like a square or circle).
●Adjust the live Z offset as it prints.
●You want slightly squished lines with no gaps, but not overly flattened.
Ideal first-layer lines should be:
●Smooth and consistent.
●Slightly flattened with no gaps between them.
●No filament curling up or getting dragged by the nozzle.
3. Choose the correct build plate and clean it
Your Bed Material affects adhesion. Here is what works best:
1. Smooth PEI Plate - Ideal for PLA and PETG, gives you a smooth finish on the bottom.
2. Textured PEI Plate - Ideal for PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, etc., gives you a textured finish on the bottom.
How to clean PEI plates:
Use dish soap and warm water to get rid of all the oils on the print bed. Do not put your fingers on the print bed after cleaning; this reintroduces oils on the plate. For a quick clean, wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol. It’s recommended to clean the bed when it’s cool, as applying IPA to a hot surface may cause rapid evaporation, which can lead to hazing or warping. For stubborn stains, lightly sand with 1000–2000 grit sandpaper.
4. Dial In the Right Temperatures
Temperature affects how well your filament sticks and how it flows.
●Nozzle temperature: Make sure you’re within the correct range for your filament. Slightly hotter helps first-layer bonding (e.g., 210–215°C for PLA).
●Bed temperature: Critical for adhesion. PLA usually likes 55–60°C, PETG around 70–80°C, ABS at 100°C.
Tip: Fan off is ideal for PLA and ABS adhesion. Some materials, like PETG or TPU, may benefit from light airflow (~20%) even on the first layer.
5. Slow Down the First Layer Speed
Print your first layer slowly and steadily. Lowering the speed gives the filament more time to bond and settle.
Recommended speeds:
●First layer speed: 15–25 mm/s
●First layer height: 0.2 mm recommended for 0.4 mm nozzles (0.3 mm max)●
●First layer extrusion width: Set to 120–150% for better bonding
Slower speeds and thicker lines help the filament grip the bed and fill gaps more reliably.
6. Use Adhesion Helpers
Depending on your filament and bed surface, you might need help:
●Glue stick: Universal solution for PLA, PETG, ABS.
●Hairspray: A light coat can help remove sticky materials, like TPU.
7. Add a Skirt, Brim, or Raft
These options help prep your nozzle and boost adhesion.
●Skirt: Outlines the print; primes the nozzle. Good for all prints.
●Brim: Adds extra perimeter around the print base; prevents warping.
●Raft: Adds a whole platform under the print. Use it for large or difficult-to-stick prints.
If you notice your print starts with gaps or inconsistent flow, increasing the skirt loops (3–5) can help before the actual model begins.
Final Thoughts
Getting the first layer right is one of the biggest secrets to successful 3D printing. It requires a bit of patience, attention to detail, and regular maintenance—but the payoff is huge: cleaner prints, fewer failures, and less wasted filament.
To summarize:
●Level your bed regularly
●Fine-tune your Z-offset
●Clean your bed and use the right adhesion aids
●Slow down the first layer
●Double-check temps and use cooling intelligently
Once your first layer becomes second nature, you’ll unlock a new level of print reliability and quality. It’s a small thing with big results—so don’t overlook it.
If you're still struggling after all this, it might be time to check your printer’s hardware, like worn nozzles, bent beds, or faulty sensors. But in most cases, these tips are all it takes to go from frustration to perfection
All opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and are not endorsed by or affiliated with Anycubic.
